Since Hedi Slimane turned creative director for Saint Laurent there has been a few changes. First of all it was the name-change, which towards the public is the biggest change. But another great and utterly relevant aspect is the move of the creative studio. From the brand’s headquarters in Paris to sunny Cali, in fact to Los Angeles. So for this collection the main inspiration has been Californian Grunge. From the music to the invites were L.A-ified, with soundtrack from a San Francisco grunge band and art by the L.A painter Theodora Allen. Honestly I fell head over heels for Slimane’s first collection for YSL. The S/S13 collection was mind-blowing. But I was disappointed for this one. Where is the Yves Saint Laurent legacy? The vintage florals feels very unsophisticated as well as the sparkly over-pimped details on the boots. The dresses are fine, well cute, and fits for L.A. But for a fall collection? I’m skeptical. The highlights were the plaided shirts and the oversized cardigans, as well as the massive baby pink fur.
For the moment I am obssesing over the grunge look. It was a quite hot trend several years ago. I recall Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen being the fashionistas that always nailed the look perfectly, and Marc Jacobs was the man on everyones lips. For this fall and winter season it hasn’t been any grunge vibes, but for RTW spring and summer 2012 there were two huge actors on the fashion scene who applied the grunge look in their collection – Phillip Lim and Dries Van Noten. Of course, the designers translated grunge in their own ways. I instantly got hooked on the patterns, the checked shirts, the layering – a leather on top of a shirt on top of a tee – the shoes, the trousers and the mixing of prints, patterns and materials (read silk with wool, cashmere with jeans). Hopefully, this will be more than a one hit wonder. The grunge look has become a classic style that always push itself back into the fashion world.
I am in love with this combo – patterned pyjama-look-a-like pants, styled with a heavy piece of leather, and topped with a classic western belt with silver details. Underneath are the amazing Dries Van Noten RTW S/S 2013 collection. It’s slightly a bit more sophisticated than the 3.1 Phillip Lim, since Van Noten has mixed more delicate materials and feminine patterns. As you may know by now, one of my weakness is leopard pattern so that is why I absolutely love the leopard printed clutches in this collection. I think it’s cool how the have styled the leopard – not as a eye catching piece but more like one among many other prints (flowers,, checked ans stripes).