As you may know, I kind of never write about menswear fashion. But, since the menswear collections are showing Spring 2014 at Paris Fashion Week for the moment, I couldn’t resist scrolling them through. One collection I just fell head over heel for is the Hermès SS14. I just love the way Véronique Nichanian worked with effortless cool styles and pieces – like boatneck t-shirts, scarfs and sandals. And, all the leather and suede! How beautiful isn’t the suede navy trench coat paired with dotted gabardine pants and loafers?
So Balmain was just stunning as always! The collection breathes glam and lux – the two factors which makes Balmain fantastic. It’s mainly runway pieces and not so much ready-to-wear, but I loved the shoes. The stitched ankle boots in suede and leather were gorgeous as well as the knee-high suede boots with the sharp red stiletto heel.
Plaid is apparently one of the hottest trends for this fall along with the girly grunge look. Stella McCartney showed of a feminine, but yet masculine, collection in Paris the other day. She is the master of playing with silhouettes from the both genders – and implementing them into beautiful looks. I believe is not one of her strongest fall and winter collections. I usually jump high for her coats and outerwear but I was disappointed this time. I do like her over sized felt and wool jacket in plaid (above) but over all the coats weren’t mind blowing. Underneath I picked some highlights in details.
Since Hedi Slimane turned creative director for Saint Laurent there has been a few changes. First of all it was the name-change, which towards the public is the biggest change. But another great and utterly relevant aspect is the move of the creative studio. From the brand’s headquarters in Paris to sunny Cali, in fact to Los Angeles. So for this collection the main inspiration has been Californian Grunge. From the music to the invites were L.A-ified, with soundtrack from a San Francisco grunge band and art by the L.A painter Theodora Allen. Honestly I fell head over heels for Slimane’s first collection for YSL. The S/S13 collection was mind-blowing. But I was disappointed for this one. Where is the Yves Saint Laurent legacy? The vintage florals feels very unsophisticated as well as the sparkly over-pimped details on the boots. The dresses are fine, well cute, and fits for L.A. But for a fall collection? I’m skeptical. The highlights were the plaided shirts and the oversized cardigans, as well as the massive baby pink fur.
Clare Waight Keller has created a stunning collection for this fall. I just love the current Spring and Summer 2013 collection and had high hopes on this one, and she delivered! As always, a lot of Chloé-ish details, like the ruffled details on the sleeves, the skirts and dresses as well as the waisted belts that creates that beautiful Chloé silhouette. I have got a pair of favorites. First of all, I am in love with the chunky golden rings with the stones. They somehow reminds me of a collection I have seen before but I am not sure which jewelry line. Anyway, the grey shearling coat was amazing as well as the short bomber in tweed with fur details. The brown croco bag is a winner and it will probably hang on every fashionistas arm this fall. Although I think it has to many similarities with some Givenchy designs – it’s like a hybrid between the Antigona bag and the Nightingale. Maybe a winning concept though.
Wow, the coats! I am absolutely melting for all these beautiful coats. Phoebe Philo is the master of coats, no doubt. In this collection she has worked with wool as the main material and we can spot wool not only in the ready-to-wear pieces but also as the main material in the bags and clutches. The tones are very neutral – navy blue, black, off-white, grey, olive and military green are all combined together in perfection. I have some favourites, like the navy peacock coat and the knee-high boots as well as the gorgeous ankle boots. When it comes to hair and make-up I love the simple styling with the hair in a knotted pony-tail, simple but yet so elegant showing of the models bare backs. A beautiful and sophisticated collection that focus on what Philo does best.
According to many of the Balenciaga-fans, Nicolas Ghesquière was a genious taking Balenciaga to a whole new level in his fifteen years of service for the brand. I was skeptical at first to Wang, he is amazingly good of what he does but I still found it very odd when they announced him as the creative director for the franch brand. Anyhow, I must say I have been all wrong. I think this collection is surprisingly good. The Balenciaga silhouettes are still there, but in a slight different way. It’s elegant and raw, just like Wang’s own designs. I like the knotted silver bracelets and details on different pieces, the amazing deep green fur jacket and black suede boots. By the way, It’s going to be so exciting to see what kind of handbags and shoes Wang can design for Balenciaga that makes every fashionistas heart turnover (Ghesquière’s cash cw was the Motorcycle bag, and still is…).